Not all azelaic acids are the same - here's why your skin reacts differently

Azelaic acid is often treated as a simple percentage on a label, but the way it is formulated changes everything. Two serums can both say 10% yet behave completely differently on the skin.

If you have acne, redness or sensitivity, understanding these differences helps you choose a product that actually supports healing rather than irritating your barrier. Formulation matters more than the number.

Azelaic acid comes in multiple forms. The surrounding ingredients control acidity, penetration and how your skin feels when it is applied. This is why one product feels calming while another feels sharp.

The Anua Azelaic Acid 10%

Anua’s azelaic acid is created with propylene glycol, which softens the overall feel. It also uses a salt form of azelaic acid. Salt forms tend to be less acidic and therefore more suitable for highly sensitive or reactive skin. It is still effective, just gentler and easier to tolerate.

The Inkey List Azelaic Acid 10%

The Inkey List version does not contain a pH regulating component, so it keeps more of its natural acidity. This makes it feel stronger on application and can be useful for more tolerant skin or for those wanting a slightly more active effect. If your barrier is fragile, it is better to introduce it slowly.

A functional view of why reactions differ

Products alone rarely explain why your skin behaves the way it does. Acne is influenced by inflammation, hormones, the microbiome and nutrient balance. When those systems are unsettled, even well formulated products can sting or cause flare ups.

Once your internal drivers are addressed, topicals like azelaic acid tend to work more predictably.

If you are unsure where to start...

Choosing the right azelaic acid is not about guessing. It comes down to understanding your skin’s current state and what is happening underneath the surface. If you want personalised guidance, I can review your routine and symptoms and help you build a plan that supports long term clearing.

Written by Shweta Patel

Medical Biochemist | Founder of Derm360º

Shweta helps people struggling with chronic acne uncover the root biochemical causes behind their skin challenges. Through advanced hormone and gut testing, functional nutrition, and barrier restoration, her evidence-based approach delivers lasting, clear-skin results.

📩 Ready to look deeper than your blood test results? Book your consultation at www.derm360.co.uk or contact hello@derm360.co.uk